Moda e controle: as vestimentas e adornos nas leis suntuárias em Valladolid na Baixa Idade Média

Abstract

My research subject refers to dress control forms in the Late Middle Ages. I use as document the "sumptuary laws" elaborated in the Iberian Peninsula, specifically in the region of Valladolid, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Thus, the purpose is not to perform a simple linear description about the fashion history, but to think of it as an representative object of history, because it's related to many political, economic and social aspects. In this case, we verify how laws control clothing, whether from higher social levels, marginalized social groups (eg jews, moors or prostitutes), restrictions on adornments, colors and fabrics, and we also analyze why this laws were established. The period of the Late Middle Ages is quite intense and fecund in normativities, and is also the moment of emergence of what we consider fashion. The garments are, at that moment, socio-political representations and the sumptuary laws recognize and record the different conditions of the community inhabitants. Thus, talk about the control exercised by the authorities in the society of the Late Middle Ages in the Iberian Peninsula through the clothing is pertinent and a subject rarely explored. The present work has as main objective to verify what were the motivations of the monarchical institution of Valladolid when legislating on the clothes in the final centuries of Middle Age. In addition to analyzing the relevance of appearance in this same region; to explore the historiography referring to the dress and social control in the Late Middle Ages and to identify the laws regarding the clothing control granted in the Iberian Peninsula.