Cuidados com a pele negra: desenvolvimento tecnológico de formulações cosméticas contendo mistura de óleos vegetais da biodiversidade brasileira nanoencapsulados

Abstract

The search for products that use natural inputs in the composition, with minimalist and vegan proposals, characterizes the new market of cosmetic products. A gap in this sector is the development of products for skin of color. Therefore, the aim of this current study is the development of cosmetics for facial care of black skin using a mix of vegetable oils from Brazilian biodiversity (copaiba and passion fruit) presented as Cannabinoid Active System (CBA®) encapsulated in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs). The phytochemical screening of CBA® was obtained by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, and it showed majority sesquiterpene composition. The NLC was developed using high shear homogenization followed by ultrasonication. The average hydrodynamic diameter, polydispersity index, zeta potential and encapsulation efficiency were 220.5 ± 4.1 nm; 0.237 ± 0.007; -21.3 ± 2.6 mV and 98.68, respectively. Moreover, it showed spherical structure by transmission electron microscopy, and remained stable for 90 days at 4°C. The NLC showed low antioxidant activity from 19.2 to 23.6% by the DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2- picrylhydrazil) assay method, moderate acute toxicity against Artemia salina (lethal dose 50 equal to 370.00 µg mL-1 of CBA® oil) and it decreased the cell viability in a dose-dependent manner in the L929 cell line of murine fibroblasts. Formulations presented as mist, serum and cream were developed with NLC, with the first two being evaluated for physical-chemical quality control and stability, demonstrating stability protected from sunlight for 90 days. Furthermore, the serum was studied for in vitro performance, and it exhibited an occlusion factor of 58,00 ± 1.64% in 48 hours. Therefore, innovative vegan nanocosmetics proposed for facial care of black skin were obtained. The hydration property due to film formation was demonstrated for the NLCs incorporated in the serum. Thus, this pharmaceutical form can reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), an important characteristic on the skin of color hydration, which tends to have greater TEWL.