Gilda Chataignier e a passarela do Jornal do Brasil: moda e elegância no Rio de Janeiro de 1962 a 1964

Abstract

This dissertation aims to analyze the fashion column Passarela, which was part of Caderno B of Jornal do Brasil from 1962 onwards and was written by journalist Gilda Chataignier between 1962 and 1968, observing the ways in which the theme is presented within the first cultural section of JB. The section emerged as part of the reformulation of the periodical implemented by journalist Alberto Dines in 1962. The column was published between 1962 and 1969, as a result of his graphic reform that culminated in the creation of a daily culture section, Caderno B. In this work I explored the first two years of the column, from 1962 to 1964, as this was a period in which Passarela was still connected to a Parisian bias in fashion and behavior that referred to the previous period, however, at the same time, it looked to Rio de Janeiro as a cultural hub. When Passarela was created in Caderno B, fashion became part of other cultural manifestations such as theater, literature, music and cinema, representing something new for journalism at the time. During the work, I also analyzed: the importance of choosing journalist Gilda Chataignier (1940-2019) to be editor of the section; the main themes covered in Passarela, as well as the fact that the section is, first and foremost, a kind of fashion and elegance guide for its readers — being a kind of showcase of the South Zone of the city, which at that moment began to stand out as a cultural space. I also investigated the idea of elegance and femininity disseminated by the column, trying to outline how elegant women of the period should dress and behave. In order to understand how the concepts and standards of fashion and elegance were disseminated and idealized by Gilda Chataignier in her column, I used the conception of habitus, developed by Pierre Bourdieu and of fashion places by Rosane Feijão de Toledo Camargo, as well as the ideas of Norbert Elias and Claudine Haroche about etiquette and gestures as a way of acquiring power and status within society and the historical apparatus of Maria do Carmo Teixeira Rainho regarding fashion in Rio de Janeiro in the 1960s and Patrícia Ferreira de Souza Lima about the creation and consolidation of Caderno B, as theoretical references.